Trip Notes: Venice

My ever-evolving list of off-the-beaten-track Venice favorites and recommendations, last updated 10/25/2024.

Cicchetti

Yes, Venice has some canals. But my favorite experiences all involve cicchetti. These ubiquitous savory snacks are served with drinks in local bacari — rustic, tiny taverns and bars, often stand up only, or with 8 seats at the bar, or perhaps a few chairs and standup spots in the street. There are a range of cicchetti: crostini, which feature dozens of toppings including baccalà mantecato: creamy whipped salted cod; stews, like octopus or shrimp; deep fried polpette of cheese, seafood, or meat hugged by mashed potatoes; little colorful corner-cut sandwiches, tramezzini, often with prosciutto. Don’t miss anything in saor, a local sweet-and-salty preserve, like shrimp or fried sardines in saor: marinated in vinegar, mounted with sweet onions and raisins, some sometimes pine nuts. Seriously local.

• WEnice Streetfood: terrible name for an excellent street-food and take-away spot, right next to the fish markets. Grab a cone of flash-fried mixed seafood here. The base is filled with warm, white polenta that seems to soak up the flavors. Squeeze some bright lemon atop, and enjoy the sights and sounds the markets while standing outside with a Spritz.
• Osteria A La Scuela: well off the beaten path, a seriously local ma- and pa- spot for home-cooked dishes. Find a broad range of polpette — tuna, bacala, or ham fritters — stewed artichokes, and polenta with saor, the sweet-and-savory fish or shrimp with onion topping. The full menu featured lasagna, vegetarian cannelloni with spinach and ricotta, spaghetti and claims, and pappardelle — we must return for full supper soon. Amongst our favorites.
• Bar All’Arco: in the midst of the busiest part of town, and the most famous of them all — it’s been visited by all the travel shows, and it’s worth it, especially if you can nab one of the few two-top tables in the alley outside, enjoying your selections with a small glass of wine and some people watching.
• Cantina do Mori: yes, it’s where Stanley Tucci dropped by, and yes, it’s going to be busy during the day when tourists are about. But if you can swing by in the late afternoon or early evening and nab a chair outside and enjoy a few ombrette — the classic small glasses of wine — you’ll be rewarded.
• Al Bocon DiVino (Campo Santa Margherita): on the doorstep of the beautiful Campo Santa Margherita, find all the deep fried cichetti you can ever imagine.
• Trattoria Al Bomba takes Venice traditions in a modern direction. Tucked down an alley just off the main street, find contemporary takes on cicchetti classics in a bright, fresh space. The restaurant next door, with its single long shared table, is on my next-time list for dinner.
• Osteria al Ponte: just before yet a bridge over the Rio dei Mendicanti, and across from the Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, features a broad range of options, charming interior, and seats facing the canal. In a picturesque city, this spot — recommended to us by a local — swims in gorgeous views.
• La Cantina: unusual for Venice, a great beer selection and tables out on the terrace.
• Il Santo Bevitore craft pub: another break from wine, with fine beers and cicchetti

Eat

• Al Covino: An intimate, slow food highlight with just 8 or so tables. Reserve online. Thanks, Mark, for the recommendation here.
• Cà D’oro alla Vedova: intensely local dishes in an old time feel. Highly recommended, reservations needed.
• Puppa Bar Venezia: ma and pa shop for Venetian pasta and risotto classics. You might bring the kids here.
• Osteria i Compari Venezia Pulperia: incredible octopus

Book shops and related

• Libreria Acqua Alta: of the many bookstores, this is the most unique, and has cats!
• Libreria Studium (337a Calle de la Canonica, San Marco)
• Libreria UBIK (4742 Calle dei Fabbri, San Marco)
• Gianni Basso Stampatore: printer, letterpress note cards

Museums

• Museo Storico Navale di Venezia highlights Venice’s vast maritime history and power
• Fondazione Querini Stampalia: home museum of a Venetian family’s collections

Fitness

• Run along Riva Dei Sette Martiri
• Run along the “back road” that crosses Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo - Pronto Soccorso
• Take a mental break from it all, in the Giardini Reali

Next time, I will:

• Use the best, local guidebook: “Venice: The Official Guide of the Gondoliers,” an orange-red guidebook that I find invaluable.
• Take the Riva dei Sette Martiri all the way east, and visit the Giardini della Biennale and Parco delle Rimembranze
• Visit Fondazione Querini Stampalia , a fabulous villa of a Venetian family
• Try Algiubagio Restaurant
• Go to Trattoria Al Bomba for dinner